It’s difficult to put into words what the sport means to the true surfer. To get out there, into the water, at one with the board and the ocean – it’s all-encompassing and addictive. Many don’t even consider it a sport anymore; it’s a discipline – a way of life.
In its most basic form, surfing may seem quite simple - to be carried across the surface of the ocean by using a breaking wave. However, it has many variations on this form and these include traditional surfing, body boarding, wave skiing and the use of long board and short board designs.
As well as the surfboard itself you’ll also need a leash, to keep you attached to the board when you ‘wipeout’ (this should prevent the board from impacting with other surfers or washing to shore), traction pads or surf wax to help you grip the surface of the board and a good quality wetsuit. Some surfers will also choose to wear gloves and a hood, although usually only in winter.
Devon is fantastic for surfing, with the beaches of Woolacombe, Croyde and Saunton among the favoured on the North coast and Exmouth and Bantham Bay to the South.